Wednesday, 10th March 2010

When I was a bass teacher, I gave many people their first bass/music lesson over the years and after a while I developed an agenda for what I wanted to achieve in this first lesson. Basically, the plan is to give people an idea of what bass playing is about; what all of the bits and pieces of the bass do; proper left and right hand techniques; a few notes to learn; an introduction to reading and tab and a couple of bass lines and exercises to go home and practice.

So here is the on-line version of the garden-variety type Libster Introductory Bass Lesson...

About the Bass

Bass Parts

Bass Styles and Functions

How To Hold The Bass

The Right Hand (Plucking Hand)

The Left Hand (Fingerboard Hand)

About the Bass

The electric bass dates back to the 1950's, when it was invented by Leo Fender. It is actually an "electric" version of the acoustic upright bass. Acoustic basses were often being used in jazz bands, but by the '50s bass players were getting pretty fed up with their lack of volume relative to other instruments. So this led to the evolution of the pickup and electric bass. These days there are hundreds of different types of electric basses and pickups and Fender basses are still as popular as ever. Electric basses essentially have the same function in a band as upright basses, which is something that we'll get to shortly.

Bass Parts

Have you just brought a bass and you don't understand how to work it properly? Well, click on the parts that you want to know about for a little explanation. If you haven't brought a bass yet, go here for a bit of advice. If you come across any "musical" terminology here that you don't understand, don't worry. We'll be getting to this stuff very soon.

The Body

The bulky section of the bass where you pluck the strings. It is usually made of wood - can be lots of different types, often ash or maple. Some bass bodies are made from graphite or aluminium. The body contains all of the instruments electronics. Bass bodies are usually solid pieces with sections carved out for the electronics. Some basses have "sound holes" carved out, making them hollow and giving them the ability to be heard without amplification. These basses are called "acoustic" or "semi-acoustic".

Pickups

These act like a microphone - magnetically picking up the vibration of the strings and transferring them through the knobs and switches, then out through the lead input and to the amplifier.

There are three main types of bass pickups, so don't panic if your bass has different ones to the ones in the picture above. Your bass may have only one pickup, or a combination of different style pickups, either of which is fine. The three pickup types are...

.. the single-coil pickup (as pictured above). This type is also known as a "jazz" pickup, because it originated on the Fender Jazz Bass, or "pole pickup" because of its shape. It usually gives a bright, clear tone.

..the split pick up, a.k.a the "precision" pickup, because it originated on the Fender Precision Bass. This pickup actually looks like two pickups next to one another, but placed diagonally. The "P" style pickup gives a warm, mid range tone.

..and the humbucker, which is a relatively big pickup - actually two single-coil pickups joined together. Humbuckers usually give off a round,big tone.

Pickups can be active or passive. An active pickup is usually powered by a battery operated pre-amp that is contained inside the bass. You can usually access the battery from the back of the body. Active pickups usually increase the output levels of the pickups and can boost the tone. Passive pickups don't have the battery/pre-amp. Some people say that passive pickups sound "warmer" than active pickups, but have less power.

If your bass has a battery, then you have to remember to unplug the bass when you are not using it, or the battery will go flat really quickly. If you do this, then your battery should have a life span of a couple of months or more.

Pots/Knobs/Switches

You can alter the electronic capabilities of your bass with these - they alter the signal sent from the pickups. They can adjust things like volume, over-all tone, bass and treble and pickup configuration. Your bass might also have "concentric" pots - one pot which has two different functions. Have a fiddle with each of the knobs to see how they effect the tone of your bass. If your bass has a switch, this probably effects the pickup configurations. It may change the pickups from humbucker to single coil, or switch between pickups if you have more than one.

Some basses have only one volume pot which effects all the pickups. Others have separate volumes for each pickup. Some have a pot that effects the relative volume of the pickups. Your bass may also have one pot which changes the overall tone of the basses. It may also have different pots for the bass, mid-range and treble tones.

Lead Input

The lead is a cord that sends the sound signal, by electrical current, from the bass electronics to the amplifier. Your bass has a 1/4" lead input socket where you should stick your lead, so if you haven't already, do it now!!! Then stick the other end of the lead into an amplifier and turn on the volume.

The input socket may be near the pots and knobs, or on the edge of the bass's body.

The Tail Piece/Bridge

This is used to attach the strings to the bass and to alter their height on the fingerboard, known as "the action". Bridges have saddles where the strings sit at an adjustable height. If you find that your strings seem a long way from the fingerboard and very hard to press down, you should get someone to adjust the saddles for you. They may also have to adjust the truss rod. The horizontal position of the saddles effects how each string keeps in tune with itself.

Scratch Plate

This is a plastic cover that protects the body, particularly from being scratched with a pick or plectrum. They aren't essential on the bass as they are on the guitar and many basses don't have them, so don't worry about it if you don't.

Straps and Strap Knobs

Straps are accessories that are attached to the bass by strap knobs. You use a strap to hold your bass up, when you are standing. You can also buy strap locks, so that the straps can't slip of the strap knobs. If you don't own a strap, you should get one, because you should get in the habit of wearing one all the time.

The Neck

The long section of the bass that has the fingerboard attached to the front. It can be bolted on to the body, glued on, or a through-neck that goes all the way through the body. The neck contains a steel rod - a truss rod that can be adjusted to change the concave of the neck. (Don't try this at home).

The neck is the most delicate part of the bass, so you have to look after it. You can do this by putting your bass back in its case if you aren't using it, or by supporting the neck properly, using a guitar stand, etc.

Necks often move with changes in the weather, which can be a bit of a pain in the neck - it means that the truss rod has to be adjusted, which only takes a couple of seconds but should be done by a repairman. You can access the truss rod either near the nut, or near the body-end of the fingerboard.

Fingerboard

This is the part of the bass on which you place your fingers, in order to change notes. The fingerboard is either glued to the top of the bass's neck, or carved out of the neck itself. It is usually made from rosewood or maple. There are some graphite fingerboards out there as well.

The Head Stock

This is attached to/or part of the neck, at the far end of the fingerboard. The strings are held at this end by the machine heads. Some basses don't have head stocks - they're known as headless basses.

The Nut

The nut, positioned at the far end of the fingerboard, on the edge of the headstock, is usually made of bone, brass or plastic. The strings sit on the nut, which keeps them at a level, standard height off the fingerboard.

Fret Wire, Fret Space & Fret Inlays

Fret wire is used to divide the fingerboard up into different pitches, each one semi-tone or half step apart. Basses without fret wire are known as "fretless" basses - these basses don't have the semi-tone fingerboard divisions. On "fretted basses" the fret wire gradually wears out and becomes uneven (after quite a few years), and then your bass might be in need of a "fret dress".

The space between to pieces of fret wire is known as a "fret space". You place your fingers in the fret spaces to get notes.

Fret inlays can be quite simple or really ornate. These are found in standard positions on the bass and guitar fingerboards, and are reminders about which fret you are playing on. On the twelfth fret space, there is usually a double inlay, which indicates the octave point on the fingerboard.

Machine Heads

These are also known as "tuning pegs". These are used to hold the strings onto the bass, at the other end to the tail piece. They keep the strings taut, and also are used to adjust the tuning of each string.

What Sort Of Bass Should I Buy?

If you are thinking about taking up the bass, here are a few pointers...

Work out how much money you have to spend. If it's your first instrument, then you shouldn't really spend too much money on it - you won't know if you are going to enjoy learning it or not, for a few weeks. At the same time though, you obviously want to buy one that you're going to enjoy playing, and that sounds half decent.

Go to a few music shops and have a closer look at any bass that catches your eye, if it's in the right price range. Ask if you can have a play, even if you don't know how. The sales assistant should be able to explain how it works, and might even give you a bit of a demonstration. If it sounds half decent, everything seems to work properly and you like it's appearance it's probably a suitable bass to buy. Have a feel of the strings on the fingerboard. If they feel O.K. then you should be safe spending your money. It doesn't make any difference whether the bass is new or used. That's simply a matter of your preference.

You don't need to buy the best bass in the shop, so don't let the sales guy talk you into it! You're only going to be playing in your home or with your friends for a while, so you don't need professional equipment.

Amps and Speakers

I don't want to get into the technological side of this stuff at the moment, but if you want to hear yourself, then you definitely need an amplifier. Often shops have beginner packages that include a bass and amp, so one of these might be worth considering. Once again, you don't need to buy the best, most expensive amp in the shop. You won't need one of these until you start doing gigs. You only need something very small and basic, so that you can hear yourself when you are practising.

Bass Styles and Functions

The bass is used in all sorts of musical styles, such as rock, pop, Jazz, classical, reggae, Latin and funk. It's main role is as part of the band's "engine room" - providing rhythmic momentum and harmonic stability or foundation. It is a low pitched instrument - sounding lower than instruments like the piano or guitar, and hence it gives the music its "bottom end". The bass can be used very effectively as a melodic instrument or solo instrument, though in a band, the first and foremost role of the bass is to provide the "groove". The "groove" gets everyone moving and shaking - so it's a very cool role to have.

How to Hold The Bass

If you are sitting down, hold the bass close to your body and keep your back straight. If you are standing up, make sure that your strap is sensibly adjusted, so that you can easily reach all extremities of the bass. It is very important to keep the bass as close to you as is practical, because it is a very big instrument - some of the notes can be hard to reach.

If you are a right-handed player, your right hand will be near the body of the bass and your left hand will be on the fingerboard side. Left-handed players play the other way around.

For convenience I'm going to assume that you are right handed. (Please don't get offended if you are left-handed - I am too. Just think of things the other way around).

The Right Hand (Plucking Hand)

By right hand, I'm actually referring to the hand that hangs out near the knobs & pickups.

There are three main right hand techniques - finger style, pick style and slapping. We're going to be learning finger style in this lesson, but here's a quick run down on all three techniques...

When playing with finger style, you use your index(1) and middle (2) fingers. This style is also known as rest stroke, because you pluck a string and then come to rest on the string below it. Finger style is probably the most widely used right hand technique. It gives you a round, warm tone which is suitable in many different styles of music.

Slapping is the popular funk technique, where you strike the strings with the knuckle of your thumb, and pull or "pop" them with your index finger.

You can also use a pick or plectrum to play the bass. A pick is a small piece of plastic that you grasp in between your right hand thumb and index finger. You strike the strings with the pick to get a sound. Picks give a clear, definite tone. They are often used in rock music, and are particularly effective when doubling guitar riffs.

All three of these techniques are widely used and well worth learning. We are going to start by learning finger style.

Finger Style

1

Plug your bass into an amplifier and turn on the volume.

2

Place your right hand thumb either on top of the pickup or on top of the thickest string,the E string, wedged next to the pickup. Keep your wrist arched so that there is quite a bit of distance in between your wrist and the body of the bass. This height/arch gives you a lot of leverage and strength. Then pluck the thinnest string with your index (1st) finger. You should try to come down on to the string rather than up underneath it. See if you can follow through with your finger, so that it comes to rest on the next string. Try this a few times before moving on. (The down movement is very important, as is firmly anchoring your thumb).

Now pluck the same string, using your middle (2nd) finger. Make sure that it comes to rest on the next string down.

Once you can do this comfortably, start alternating your 1st and 2nd finger, still plucking the thinnest string, the G string. If you look in a mirror, you should see that your fingers look like they are "walking".

3

Here are the names of each of the strings...

Pluck each of the strings 4 times, alternating your right hand fingers. Name each string as you pluck it. nb., when you pluck the E string, you will have to make sure that your thumb is not resting on it. If it is, then reposition it at the tip of the pickup.

When you're plucking the strings, use the meaty part on the top joint of your fingers. This will give you a firm, definite and yet warm tone.

4

Now practice the following right hand exercises, concentrating on maintaining your right hand technique.

i) Play G G D D A A E E; E E A A D D G G

ii) Play E E A A D D G G; G G D D A A E E

iii) Play E A D G G D A E

iv) Play EEE AAA DDD GGG GGG DDD AAA EEE

v) Play E E D D A A G G; G G A A D D E E

5

Before we more on to the other hand, let's just do a quick experiment. Move the position of your right hand, so that it is near the tip of the fingerboard. Now, pluck a string. You will find that the tone that you hear is much rounder or warmer that when your arm is positioned near the pickup. Now move your arm to near the tail piece, and pluck the string again. You will now find that the tone sounds very bright and clear. As you get better at the bass, you will start experimenting more with these different hand positions. You tend to adjust your position when you are playing, to get an appropriate tone for the music that you are playing.

But for now, stick to the pickup position, which is usually fairly central, and therefore gives you a fairly warm but clear mid-range tone.

The Left Hand (Fingerboard Hand)

6

Place your left hand thumb at the apex of the bass's neck (at the back and in the middle), about 2 fret spaces from the nut. If you move your wrist down below the neck, you should be able to comfortably place your left hand fingers on the fingerboard. It is very important that you keep your thumb firmly anchored, as your fingers move by pivoting around your thumb position. Try to keep your fingers as loose as possible (apart from your thumb).

7

Place your left hand index (1st) finger on the first fret space of the E string. You should position it as close as possible to the fret wire, which is always the prime finger placement position. Playing near the fret wire (on the right hand side) makes the notes much easier to play.

Pluck the E string once you have done this. If you get a buzzing sound, then you are not pressing hard enough, so give it another go.

8

Leaving your index finger on the first fret space, position your middle (2nd) finger on the E string, 2nd fret space. Once again, place it near the right hand fret wire. Now pluck the string, and notice that the pitch of the note has changed.

9

Now position your 3rd (ring) finger on the E string 3rd fret space and pluck the string again. Then place your 4th (little) finger on the fourth fret space and pluck again.

10

Repeat steps 7 to 9 a few times, so you practice playing the four different notes with separate fingers.

11

Move up to the A string and play the same pattern. Then move to the D string and G string.

12

When you have made it all the way to the G string 4th fret, reverse your direction and work your way back downwards. You should be playing G string frets 4 -3 -2 -1 then D string frets 4-3-2-1 etc. You will have to take your fingers off the fingerboard to change pitch.

You should practice this exercise for about a week, until you start to gain some left hand fluency. I'll be giving you a few more left hand exercises below.

Don't panic if you find it hard to stretch your fingers far enough or to hold them down on the fingerboard. It takes awhile for your fingers to develop enough strength and co-ordination to handle the bass so just persevere and everything will soon fall into place. It takes at least a week or two before you can fluently move your fingers on the fingerboard.

Please note - the principle of one finger per fret, aka. "the four fret span" works really well on the bass, so try to keep this in mind when you are learning other pieces of music.

You may position your left hand at different areas of the neck. If you are playing with your first finger on the first fret space, then you are playing in first position. If your first finger is on the second fret space, then you are in 2nd position, etc.

Tuning

Tuning is essentially a matter of comparing one string to another, assuming that one of the strings is actually in tune. Here is a step by step method.

13

You have to compare one of the strings to another instrument. Compare your (open) G string to this sound. Adjust the machine head of the G string until the notes match. Take your time getting your note to match the recorded one - it's not all of that easy to hear at first. If you get a vibration or oscillation, then your string is still out of tune. When it is in tune, there won't be any vibration.

14

Now it's a matter of tuning the other strings to the tuned string. Position a finger on the D string, 5th fret. If your D string is in tune, this note should be the same pitch as the open G string. Adjust the machine head of the D string until the notes match. Don't touch the G string machine head, which has already been tuned.

15

Once you think you have the top two strings tuned, move on to the A string. If you place a finger on the A string, 5th fret space, this note should sound the same as the open D string. If it doesn't, then you have some adjusting to do.

16

Finally, position a finger on the E string 5th fret space and pluck the string. Then compare it to the open A string, which should sound the same. So, adjust the E string machine head until the notes match.

Now hopefully your bass will be in tune. If you want to check each of the strings, go to the Libster Tuning Page.

Don't worry if it doesn't seem perfect - you will get the hang of tuning soon enough. You should try to tune your bass every time that you play it. You can also buy an electronic tuner for some assistance.

The method of tuning that you have learned is the "open string" method. There is another method of tuning - using harmonics - that we will have a look at in a forthcoming lesson.

Reading and Tablature

You now know enough about bass playing to progress on to the Libster Reading Series - which is a step by step guide to reading music and playing. Here you will learn about the notes on the fingerboard, how to read them, how to count and all sorts of other stuff, including learning lots of bass lines.

There is another form of written music that you also should be aware of - tablature. Tablature indicates which frets and strings you should play on. It's kind of like "cheats" notation, but it's been around for centuries as a convenient form of fingerboard notation.

With tablature, you get four lines, each of which represents one bass string. A note to be played on a string is indicated by a number on one of the four lines. The number tells you the number of the fret space that you should play on. In the first example below, you should play on the E string 1st fret, followed by the 2nd, 3rd and 4th fret. Then you move up to the A string and do the same. Lo and behold, this is the exercise from earlier.

For a bit of left hand c onsolidation and your first exposure to bass lines, practice each of the exercises below. Take your time, and play each note evenly.

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A 12 bar blues

For a bit of fun before we wind up our first bass lesson, here is a really common bass line - a version of the 12 bar blues. Take your time reading the tablature, and practice this line a lot to build up your finger strength. I've written suggested a fingering for each note above the tab. Be careful to pluck the string that you are "fretting" as well - this doesn't always happen when you are first learning. Each note must be played with an even rhythm for the bass line to "make sense".

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What Now?

Well, now that you have learned some of the basics you should spend some time consolidating your new skills. Each of the exercises and lines above is numbered, so you should gradually work your way through these until you can play each one really well.

Then it's time to get serious and learn some more stuff about your bass. Specifically, you should definitely start to learn what the notes on the fingerboard are (see my Fingerboard Familiarity Lesson), and also how to play in time. If I was you I would head off to the Libster Reading Series, for some methodical guidance.

Well, good luck and see you in another lesson,

Libster.

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